Been a bit out of this space for awhile so apologies to all you faithful readers. Thanks for your encouraging words and clever uses of sarcasm and double entendre in my absence. I've come to a few conclusions recently about truffles. Not the fancy chocolate items rather the ones that grow underground and are technically the fruiting bodies (ascocarps) of mycorrhizal ascomycetous fungi. If you're not familiar, you've probably been busy enjoying your can of Chunky Soup straight out of the can and irritated that despite the name this blog does not contain adult content. Sorry...The flavors are earthy and complex with an exceptional savory quality while the aromas are pungent and unmistakably specific.The fresh, whole white and black specimens often hail from Italy or France and are incredibly rare and expensive. Whites are grown primarily near Alba and the Piedmont region while the majority of black truffles come from the Perigord region in the southeast of France. As a result of the cost and scarcity, the market for truffle-flavored items such as oils, salts, butters, desert toppings, lotions, candles, floor wax...etc, has got a bit out of control as has the number of items seasoned with some vague essence of truffle. Because of the strength and concentration of many high quality white and black truffle oils, a little does indeed go a long way. Can there be too much of a good thing? Yeah, I think so. It seems that truffles or their cachet and delightful flavor have now reached the esteemed cliched heights of tiramisu in the 80's or tuna tartare in the last decade.
Don't get me wrong, I like truffles alot. I even own one of those ridiculous slicing devices and regularly use the Bartolini oils on fresh green beans and make a mean truffle risotto when I can afford to procure a freshly imported one from Seattle Caviar. Within the last few months however I've seen the growing ubiquity of truffle mac-and-cheese, truffle popcorn, truffle ice cream, and even truffle lollipops. Really? We need truffle lollipops? Note to the clever and talented chefs out there. Go easy with the truffle...it's exotic and sensual and deserves more than being relegated to a popcorn flavor additive...
2 comments:
Hey! I resent that Chunky Soup remark! Those require can openers. Urban sophisticates like me go for the more modern and elegant Campbell's Soup At Hand. Just heat and serve, man! It has all the convenience of a coffee travel cup with the heat of...soup, I guess.
A couple years ago I was wandering the vegetable stalls of the Pike Place Market. Usually, the "Don't Even Think About Touching our Bean Display" signs indicate crappy produce for tourists. But one stall had a little basket of black truffles out next to the walkway. No label, no price.
I asked the guy: "Aren't you taking a chance that someone with just shoplift these?" He replied, "The shoplifters don't know what they are or what to do with them. People who appreciate them don't shoplift them."
Maybe the next trend is anchovies. Or one of your faves: salted capers. Good post!
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